Most people get their measurements wrong. Not because they're careless — because nobody told them the right way to do it.
Ordering latex is different from ordering a dress off the rack. There's no stretch to compensate, no give in the fabric to forgive a centimetre here or there. What you send us is what we cut to. So before you reach for the tape measure, it's worth understanding what we're actually asking for — and why.
Start with the right tape
A soft fabric tape measure. Not a metal one, not a piece of string you hold up to a ruler afterwards. The tape should sit flush against the skin — not digging in, not floating. Wear as little as possible, or nothing at all. Latex is worn directly against the body; your measurements should reflect that.
The measurements we ask for — and what they actually mean
1. Chest
Measure around the fullest part of the chest, keeping the tape parallel to the floor. Don't hold your breath. Don't pull the tape tight. This is the circumference at its natural fullest point.
2. Under Bust
Directly beneath the bust, where a bra band would sit. Keep the tape snug but not compressed.
3. Waist
Your natural waist — the narrowest point of your torso, usually a few centimetres above the navel. Not where your jeans sit. Not your hip. The narrowest point.
4. Above Hips
Roughly 7–10cm below the natural waist, before the hip curve begins. This is the point most people skip — and it's the one that causes the most fit issues in high-waisted pieces.
5. Across Hips at the Widest Point
The fullest circumference of the hips and seat. Stand with feet together. The tape should pass over the widest part of the buttocks.
6. Thigh — Just Below Crotch
With feet hip-width apart, measure the circumference of the thigh at its highest point, just below where the legs meet. This one is almost always underestimated.
7. Knee
Circumference around the centre of the kneecap. Leg straight, not bent.
8. Calf at Widest Point
The fullest part of the calf muscle. Usually mid-calf, but varies by body.
9. Ankle
Just above the ankle bone. Narrower than you think.
10. Shoulder / Arm
Measured across the top of the shoulder — from the edge of one shoulder to the other, across the back. This determines sleeve placement and shoulder seam position.
11. Bicep
Circumference at the fullest part of the upper arm, with the arm relaxed at your side. Not flexed.
12. Elbow
Circumference around the elbow joint, arm slightly bent.
13. Forearm
The widest point of the forearm, between elbow and wrist.
14. Wrist
Just above the wrist bone. This is the exit point for full-length sleeves — it needs to be accurate.
15. Arm Length
From the top of the shoulder (where the seam would sit) down to the wrist bone, with the arm slightly bent. Measure along the outside of the arm.
16. Neck Circumference
Around the base of the neck, where a collar would sit. Keep the tape comfortable — not tight.
The seam measurements — where most people give up
These are the ones that feel abstract until you understand what they're tracing.
17. X-Seam — Crotch to Ankle
From the crotch point (where the inner legs meet) straight down the inside of the leg to the ankle bone. This is your inseam equivalent for latex.
18. Y-Seam — Waist to Ankle
From the natural waist, down the outside of the leg, to the ankle. Measures the full outer leg length.
19. U-Seam — Neck Through Crotch to Back of Neck
This one requires a second person. The tape starts at the back of the neck, travels down the spine, passes through the crotch, and comes back up the front of the body to the front of the neck. It traces the full body length through the centre. For catsuits and full-body pieces, this is the measurement that determines overall fit more than any other.
20. Shoulder Blade — Across Back
Measured horizontally across the widest part of the upper back, from shoulder blade to shoulder blade. Different from the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement — this one sits lower and captures the breadth of the back.
Head, hands, and feet
21. Forehead Circumference
For hoods and masks: measure around the widest part of the head, across the forehead and around the back. This is not the same as hat size — go wider than you think.
22. Total Body Height
Standing straight, barefoot, against a wall. Floor to the top of the head. This gives us overall proportion context, particularly for full-length pieces.
23. Foot Length
From the back of the heel to the tip of the longest toe, measured flat on the floor.
24. Palm Circumference
Around the widest part of the hand, excluding the thumb. This determines glove fit at the knuckle point.
25. Breast Cup
Your bra cup size, as a reference point. We use this alongside the chest and under-bust measurements to understand projection and shape — not as a standalone number.
A few things worth saying plainly
Measure twice. If a number surprises you, measure again. If two measurements are more than 2cm apart, take a third and use the middle value.
Don't measure over clothing. Even thin fabric adds up across 25 points.
Don't round down. There's a common instinct to shave a centimetre off here and there. Latex doesn't have ease built in the way woven fabrics do — a piece cut too small won't stretch to fit, it simply won't go on. When in doubt, go with the larger number.
And if you're genuinely unsure about any of these — ask. We'd rather answer a question before we cut than remake a piece after.
Written by the Form Latex team — bespoke latex clothing handmade in the UK